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| Amanda Read Chicks are undoubtedly most healthy when naturally incubated and brooded by the hen on free range, but often your first batch of chicks will have to be ordered from a hatchery and brooded by you. When you order day old chicks from a hatchery, you are generally acquiring babies that have been hatched artificially in large incubators, as that is the only way for a hatching schedule to be economically feasible. Chicks are amazingly designed to ingest the entire yolk of the egg immediately before hatching and thus are able to go without any other nourishment for roughly three days. This keeps them alive for 2-3 days in transit. A day or two before the chicks are scheduled to arrive, the brooder should have its lamps/heater turned on in order to "pre-heat" it. This will provide a comfortable environment for the chicks as soon as they arrive. For their first two weeks the temperature should be no less than 80-85 degrees fahrenheit. It is especially crucial that every chick knows where to get feed and water in the brooder. Dip each of their beaks in the feed and water troughs as soon as they arrive. For cleaning convenience and efficiency, I prefer to use secure cage brooders with dropping pans. Lining the pan with newspaper, paper towels, old catalogs, old brown paper feed bags, etc. helps absorb the moisture of droppings and spills. Adequate heat, space and ventilation will also help keep it dry, thus reducing odor and the need for frequent cleanings. Look out for the chicks as often as possible. When we raised our first 15 chicks in our schoolroom in the house, they were watched and played with constantly. We had a very small, simple pet cage and clamp lamp for a brooder. They had a 1 quart plastic chick waterer and galvanized feeder. It was in late summer and they enjoyed many outings in the yard after their first week. We lost none of them in chickhood. Our second batch of chicks has been living in the "Kennel", a convenient little building next to the garage that is well insulated and has hot and cold running water. The new brooder is large enough to contain 48 chicks for about 4 weeks, has a controlled thermostat and three long plastic troughs for feed and water that hang on the outside of the brooder. The chicks stick their heads through the horizontal slots to access them. This keeps the feed and water cleaner, as you do not have to worry about droppings contaminating it. All 26 arrived in excellent condition, but one afternoon when we were not present some escaped from the brooder through a side door that was not properly closed. After being exposed to the cold floor (we got them in late winter), a few suddenly became weak and died. They showed no symptoms of an identifiable disease, but were apparently badly affected by dehydration and chill that resulted from their mischievous rendezvous. Hatcheries often provide chick vitamin boosters such as QuikChik and Gro-Gel. We have used both successfully. Gro-Gel is a powder sent in a surprisingly small amount, yet when mixed with 1/2 cup of water transforms into a green gel that can feed 100 chicks. QuikChik can be sprinkled in the water to make a sort of gatorade for the young chicks. The Vitamin C provides a good boost. Our chicks have always been fed an organic chick starter. Grit, which is also provided by hatcheries in the form of small gravel, is to be sprinkled on the feed on the third day after their arrival. It is a good idea to implement some of the ideal feeding regimen recommended by Juliette de Bairacli Levy {see sidebar}. As soon as the chicks are over a week old and the weather is suitable (and no poisons have been spread on the grass or nearby buildings), they love being taken out in the fresh air and sunshine. They will instinctively scratch the earth and chase insects, just like adult chickens! They are even aware of hawks at an early age. They immediately become alert at the sight and sound of even a plane flying by. With no mother hen around, they will usually become attached to their owners. Often times when I walk through the yard they begin to scurry under my skirt, not wanting to be left alone. Keep them active and healthy and don't let any chicks get pecked and bullied. Chickens are attracted the red color of blood, so treat and isolate any that are injured. Way too often does unnatural and uncomfortable confinement result in fighting and cannibalism. Many commercial poultry farms today cut the top beak back to prevent such depraved behaviors. Quite an unfortunate (not to mention unattractive) choice. To be successful with chicks, remember that you are raising them to be productive chickens - and that chickens are created for active foraging on the land. |
| Our Dominique Chicks in 2007: |
| "The best feed for young chicks is finely ground, organically grown cereals, mixed with a little powdered slippery elm bark and finely chopped green food such as chickweed, groundsel, and especially watercress. The chicks should be ranging daily with the hen, and obtaining adequate insect protein, but failing this, they will require insect protein, but failing this, they will require a daily one-ounce ration of fishmeal, and/or a little milk, to supply active protein. For special chicks, shredded raisins are highly beneficial, also chick peas, nettle seed, millet seed, sunflower seed, and most seeds of edible plants, as they are Nature's finest food concentrates. A few drops of cod-liver oil mixed into the cereals, and a half pinch of seaweed powder per chick, provides the perfect diet. For backward chicks raw egg can be added to the diet, also raw milk, and the aromatic herbs such as fennel, dill, mint, anise. mint, anise. Finely chopped garlic and onions are excellent for chicks, being both disease and worm preventive. Likewise rue has similar properties and is even superior to garlic for poultry use." - Juliette de Bairacli Levy's The Complete Herbal Handbook For Farm And Stable |
| Our Red Star chicks in 2004: |
| Amanda Read www.amandaread.com |